Fallen leaves may be the best mulch.
What is mulch?
Mulch is a layer of material (typically organic) used for weed suppression, soil moisture retention, temperature moderation as well as improving soil fertility as mulch breaks down over time.
Where do I get mulch?
Mulch is free and available to residents in several municipalities in Westchester County. Check with your municipality to see if they offer this. Alternately, bagged mulch is available at garden centers and nurseries.
What kind of mulch should I use?
Mulch made up of organic material (leaves, plant debris that has broken down over time) will benefit your soil fertility as the material breaks down. Most of the commercially available mulch is organic in nature so will break down over time as opposed to stone or gravel.
Note: Avoid the use of dyed mulch. Not only does colored mulch pose potential health risks to people, pets and plants, they also do not enrich soil or add beneficial bacteria or nitrogen.
When do I apply mulch?
Typically, mulch is applied in the spring, though it can be applied in the fall and any time throughout the growing season, and should be applied for any new garden or landscape installation.
How do I apply mulch?
Generally, a mulch layer is two to three inches thick. Read in the How-to Guides section some tips on Proper Mulching.
- Perennials: Be sure not to bury the crowns of plants as the extra moisture mulch holds will rot the crowns.
- Shrubs: Avoid mulching right up the base of the shrub. Leave room under the shrub for air flow to prevent fungal pathogens.
- Trees: Do not use mulch volcanoes. Do not bury the natural tree flare with mulch as it causes too much moisture to build up around the trunk and the root ball. This can lead to fungus, rot and decay and ultimately lead to the death of the tree. Below shows the tree on the left with a mulch volcano and on the right, the correct way to mulch allowing for the flare to be seen at the based of the trunk.
Mulch Volcano (left) Proper Mulching (right)
Again, the image on the left in the schematic below shows improper mulching. The mulch is piles at the based of the tree trunk in a destructive mulch volcano. The image on the right shows the proper way to mulch a tree. the mulch shold be kept away from the trunk and lightly cover a ring of soil that feeds water to a ro ot ball. As the tree grows, the mulched area can be enlarged, but the trunk must remain uncovered. The image below is courtesy of the The Washington Post.
Improper Mulching (left) Proper Mulching (right)
Do I need to reapply mulch every year?
Technically, mulch can be reapplied every year, though it is a resource sink..... Instead, consider using leaf mulch or a native groundcover (a living mulch).
What is leaf mulch?
Leaf mulch is leaves from your property that are chopped or shredded on site and then reapplied to gardens and landscapes. Leaf mulch naturally puts nutrients back into your soil as it decomposes and provides habitat for overwintering insects and other invertebrates. Keeping leaves on your property has the additional environmental benefit of reducing your carbon footprint by reducing leaf blowing and not transporting leaves off site.
What is “living or green mulch?
Living or green mulch consists of native groundcovers that take the place of mulch, providing seasonal interest as well as moderating soil moisture and temperature. And unlike mulch, which is reapplied year after year, you only have to plant it once.
This information was prepared by Missy Fabel.
Native plants are those plant species that evolved in your region without human interaction. In the northeastern US, generally that means plant species that were here before European colonists arrived. Plants from other parts of the world are referred to as “introduced,” “exotic,” or simply “non-native.”
Because they evolved in the local environment, native plants usually need less care (such as fertilizers and pesticides that may harm the environment) than many non-native plants. They usually require less water, too (except for those adapted to growing near water bodies).
No matter how small the space, when you choose a native species of plant instead of a non-native one, that individual action is a step towards supporting healthy local ecosystems and biodiversity. Better yet, when multiple people in a neighborhood or community make those choices, they can combine into thriving "conservation corridors" that support a diversity of vibrant life.
The Native Plants section of Planting Westchester covers most native plants such as perennials, shrubs, grasses, etc. For native trees, see the Trees section; for native plants to grow near streams, ponds, etc., see Planting by Water.
While native plants may be found in most of the same places you buy non-native plants, it is important to verify that the species you select actually is native to our region as mislabeling is all too common. Plants with names that mention geographic areas are obvious: Japanese anemone, Korean dogwood, English ivy, and Pampas grass all clearly are not native here. The full scientific (Latin) name is also informative: Spirea japonica, for example, is from Asia. Latin names with words like canadense, virginiana, pensylvanica, or caroliniana are more likely native to our area. If you’re not sure, put the label name of the plant into Google or other search engine along with the word “native.” You will quickly find information about the native habitat of the plant. Numerous resources called “plant finders” can help.
Native Plants support local food webs, providing insects, birds, and other wildlife with what they depend on for survival. Insects native to our region co-evolved over thousands of years with native plants. They cannot eat non-native plants (and some, such as the larvae of certain species of butterflies, for example, can eat only particular species of native plants). In recent years, as gardeners have favored non-native plants, insects have struggled to find food. Our native birds depend almost entirely on insects to feed their young. Loss of insect populations due to fewer native plants is contributing to the loss of songbird populations. Increasing the number of native plants in our gardens increases food sources for insects, enables songbirds to better feed their young, and supports the diversity of native species of insects such as butterflies and other native pollinators.
Insects around the world are in serious decline and that decline impacts what we eat and more. According to the Penn State Huck Institutes of the Life Sciences, "The breadth of ecosystem services provided by insects corresponds with an estimated annual economic value of $57 billion. Insect pollinators (e.g. bees, flower-flies, and butterflies) pollinate over 85% of wild flowering plants and over 75% of agricultural crop species. The loss of partial or whole insect communities can have disastrous effects for food webs and reduce an area’s ability to recover after disturbances. Many dragonfly species can be biological controls for disease-carrying mosquitoes, and lacewings can control agricultural pests like aphids and mites. Finally, beetles can be highly important for the removal of waste products from the environment, and the introduction of dung beetles onto farms has been shown to promote disease resistance against foodborne pathogens."
Title: Sustainable Gardening with Native Plants
Author/Source: The Native Plant Center at Westchester Community College
Description: Located at the college’s campus in Valhalla, NY, The Native Plant Center offers many opportunities to learn about native plants, including through classes and demonstration gardens.
Title: Homegrown National Park
Author/Source: Douglas Tallamy
Description: Inspiring and colorful website from author of Bringing Nature Home. Includes why native plants are important, ways to get started and easy steps for beginners. Check out Tallamy's Hub, and Signature Posts under the Get Started Tab.
Title: Why Native Plants Matter
Author/Source: National Audubon Society
Description: Benefits of native plants to birds and other animals.
Title: Designing Gardens with Flora of the American East, Chapter 1
Author: Carolyn Summers
Publisher: Rutgers University Press, 2010
Description: Complete and practical guide to landscape gardening with native plants
Title: The Native Link
Author/Source: Pennsylvania Native Plant Society
Description: Simple graphic showing the importance of native plants to the food web, with starter plant list.
Native substitutes
Because non-native plants are not palatable to our native insects, they can spread uncontrollably, out-competing native plants and becoming “invasive.” Many popular garden plants are now invasive. Try planting native plant substitutes instead.
Title: Invasive Plant Brochure
Author/Source: New England Wildflower Society
Description: Introduction to invasive plants with suggested native alternatives.
Title: Native Alternatives to 12 Common Invasive Plants
Author/Source: Native Plant Center at Westchester Community College
Description: PDF list of native plant substitutes for commonly used invasive garden plants